Verrier Elwin (1902-1964) The Pilgrimage to Tawang
1.Describe
in your own words the author’s journey to Tawang.
Or,
“A Pilgrimage to Tawang” is an authentic document of the tribal life of
Arunachal Pradesh”--- discuss the statements.
Or, Why
Elwin title his journey as “a Pilgrimage to Tawang”.
Answer:-
Varrier
Elwin was an anthropologist whose work on Indian tribal life contributed much
to understand these people of high land. He was fascinated by the Indian
Culture and travel widely throughout India and wrote extensively about the
different tribes, especially of the north-eastern region. In recognition to his
work Elwin was made Advisor of Tribal Affairs of the Government of India. He
was attracted towards Buddhism and when he died in 1963 he was cremated in
Shillong according to Buddhist rituals. His autobiography “The tribal world of
Varrier Elwin” is a remarkable piece of writing characterized by keen
observation and empathy understanding from the north eastern people. The
present essay “A Pilgrimage to Tawang” is an extract from this book.
The
essay is full of graphic description of the natural beauty of North East
Frontier Agency(N.E.F.A., the present day Arunachal Pradesh) and is marked by
high degree sympathy for the inhabitants of this region. Elwin short
observation, an eye for detail and boundless spirit of adventure and curiosity
are main characteristics of this writing. Whatever Elwin has described
throughout the essay, it has projected the author’s deep sense of involvement
with the people of this area and his skillful imaginative power mixed with
realistic presentation.
Elwin
begins his account of the journey with the description of the geographic religious
and political importance of Tawang. The importance of this valley can be
realized by the fact that it was the first place at which Dalai Lama had halted
when he travelled India seeking Political asylum(Shelter). The first part of
the journey leads the author and his companions to Bomdila. He gives a vivid description
of the journey, its problems and its joy which are adequate compensation for
all their troubles they had to face.
From
Bomdila they travelled to Dirang where they met the people of Monpa Tribes.
Elwin describes different aspects of Monpa life including their houses, their dress
code, their temple, their rituals and their food habits. He also remembers the
warm hospitality, the pleasant atmosphere and the loving care he received on
this occasion. Both he and his wife Lila along with the other members of the
expedition really had a great time. Although, Elwin himself found the better-tea
that was served to be a little over whelming for his liking but others enjoyed
it a lot. Tea was followed by rice spirit, a strong drink that he compares with
Vodka. This strong drink was offered to them in every village they crossed.
Next
the author describes their journey from Dirang to the Sela Pass, once again the
hardship of the journey is forgotten in the beauty of the nature. The journey
culminates in the Buddhists’ Monastery at Tawang what makes the moment most
special is that they arrived at the monastery on Buddha Purnima Day. Once again
Elwin’s fascination for Buddhism is evident here. He does not speak of it as a
journey but as a pilgrimage. He states that, “It meant something much more to
me than the ordinary official tour.” The Buddha Purhit and the ceremonial
procession made it all important and spiritually engaging for the visitors.
Elwin watched the whole festival from the Balcony of the Monastery and found a
divine inspiration within him.
In
the second part of the essay Elwin presents his journey through Lohit Valley to
Walong(district) and his meeting with the people of various tribes. In this
section it is the anthropologist in Elwin who pre-dominates. Elwin visits Mishmi
tribes and interest with them. He notes every aspects of their like including
their houses, families, clothing, customs and their beliefs.
Elwin
also describes another journey that he undertook with his wife among the
Mishimis. Throughout the journey what is evident is the empathy of the traveler
with the landscape and mindscape of its people. The mini travelogue is full of fascinating
details of the land and their people. Elwin presented the whole description in
simple and straight forward language with the attitude of involvement and
interest for the whole hilly region.
2.Describe
the author’s journey from Charduar to Tawang.
Or, Account
in your own words the various experiences of the writer during his Pilgrimage
to Tawang.
Answer:-
“A
Pilgrimage to Tawang” is a mine-travelogue which is full of fascinating details
of the landscape and various hill tribes of former NEFA, present day Arunachal
Pradesh. Tawang is a beautiful upland valley between Bhutan and Tibbet. This is
the place where renowned Buddhist monk Dalailama had sought political asylum in
India after living Tibbet due to Chinese attack. In 1962 Tawang again came to
light when it was captured by the Chinese solders. It was however reoccupied by
Lama’s and the Indian administration later on.
In
1956, Elwin was on a tour of this valley with his wife Lila and covered the
same route taken by Dalailama. Dalailama was able to make the entire journey
between Charduar to Bomdila by jeep. Elwin had a break up journey because he
was badly bitten by Dim-dam flies and other horrid insects which has a poisonous
effect on his whole body. In spite of this troubles on journey both Mr. and
Mrs. Elwin enjoyed the adventure at it highest label. Huge rockcliffs,
picturesque Vistas, tunnels of trees and wild flowers. Greet the visitors there
were the sweet smell of the valley and endless fountains and rills extends the
author’s imaginations.
It
is not merely the eyes but the mind and the human spirit that got importance
during their journey. The journey over the Sela Pass is unforgettable. The
natural beauty is capable of invoking various experiences in each visitor in a
very personal manner. It is a reserve of unexpected joy, from being a painter
inspiration, a poet’s muse, an environmentalist’s heaven, a peace seeker’s
resort, or a tourist’s vacation spot. The author gives a vivid description of
his journey with all its hardship and its joys which ceased all the trouble
they had to face at their journey.
At
Dirang the author meet the Abbot of Tawang. He is one of the greatest saints of
Buddhism. They received a very warm welcome and found the experience very
moving. The Lama’s and his band paid a welcome guard where small children also
took part. After Dirang, Elwin came to Senzedzong where Dalailama haulted his
journey. Later the group crossed SelaPass which is situated at the height of 14
thousand feet. The two lakes of the Selapass called “The Eyes of God”. At this
place author enjoyed his launch and they went on for another twenty miles to Tawang.
The
group reached Tawang on the Eve of Buddha Purnima which was 2500 Anniversary of
the birth of Buddha. They meet with all the monk sand the trumpets were blown.
They also met with Mahayana sector of Buddhism with strong tan-tic elements.
Later they went to the Manastray liberary where the great treasure was the
Getompa, eight large volumes, three of which were lettered in Gold. There were
more than seven hundred books in the library, books were worshiped even if they
were not read. The visitors also enjoyed the Thutotdam, the dance of the king
and queen of death. The dance reminds the spectators that death awaits every man,
so they must not be too much attracted to physical pleasure.
The
journey was one of the most memorable experiences of Elwin. His description of
the ‘Landscape of Tawang’ is so much realistic that a reader can realize
everything between his eyes if he goes through the essay. Regarding this
pilgrimage Elwin himself said, “As I have always called it something much more
to me than the ordinary official tour.” I had always been interested in
Buddhism and inspired by much of its teaching. Now it became real to one. These
few weeks a definite change in my life, a step forward in spiritual
realization.”
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