Verrier Elwin (1902-1964) The Pilgrimage to Tawang
Describe in your own words the author’s
journey to Tawang.
Or, “A Pilgrimage to Tawang” is an
authentic document of the tribal life of Arunachal Pradesh”--- discuss the
statements.
Or, why Elwin title his journey as “a
Pilgrimage to Tawang”.
Answer:-
Varrier Elwin was an anthropologist whose work on Indian
tribal life contributed much to understand these people of high land. He was
fascinated by the Indian Culture and travel widely throughout India and wrote
extensively about the different tribes, especially of the north-eastern region.
In recognition to his work Elwin was made Advisor of Tribal Affairs of the
Government of India. He was attracted towards Buddhism and when he died in 1963
he was cremated in Shillong according to Buddhist rituals. His autobiography
“The tribal world of Varrier Elwin” is a remarkable piece of writing
characterized by keen observation and empathy understanding from the north
eastern people. The present essay “A Pilgrimage to Tawang” is an extract from
this book.
The essay is full of graphic description of the natural
beauty of North East Frontier Agency (N.E.F.A., the present day
Arunachal Pradesh) and is marked by high degree sympathy for the inhabitants of
this region. Elwin short observation, an eye for detail and boundless spirit of
adventure and curiosity are main characteristics of this writing. Whatever
Elwin has described throughout the essay, it has projected the author’s deep
sense of involvement with the people of this area and his skillful imaginative
power mixed with realistic presentation.
Elwin begins his account of the journey with the description
of the geographic religious and political importance of Tawang. The importance
of this valley can be realized by the fact that it was the first place at which
Dalai Lama had halted when he travelled India seeking Political asylum (Shelter).
The first part of the journey leads the author and his companions to Bomdila.
He gives a vivid description of the journey, its problems and its joy which are
adequate compensation for all their troubles they had to face.
From Bomdila they travelled to Dirang where they met the
people of Monpa Tribes. Elwin describes different aspects of Monpa life
including their houses, their dress code, their temple, their rituals and their
food habits. He also remembers the warm hospitality, the pleasant atmosphere
and the loving care he received on this occasion. Both he and his wife Lila
along with the other members of the expedition really had a great time.
Although, Elwin himself found the better-tea that was served to be a little
over whelming for his liking but others enjoyed it a lot. Tea was followed by
rice spirit, a strong drink that he compares with Vodka. This strong drink was
offered to them in every village they crossed.
Next the author describes their journey from Dirang to the
Sela Pass, once again the hardship of the journey is forgotten in the beauty of
the nature. The journey culminates in the Buddhists’ Monastery at Tawang what
makes the moment most special is that they arrived at the monastery on Buddha
Purnima Day. Once again Elwin’s fascination for Buddhism is evident here. He
does not speak of it as a journey but as a pilgrimage. He states that, “It
meant something much more to me than the ordinary official tour.” The Buddha Purhit
and the ceremonial procession made it all important and spiritually engaging
for the visitors. Elwin watched the whole festival from the Balcony of the
Monastery and found a divine inspiration within him.
In the second part of the essay Elwin presents his journey
through Lohit Valley to Walong (district) and his meeting with the people of
various tribes. In this section it is the anthropologist in Elwin who
pre-dominates. Elwin visits Mishmi tribes and interest with them. He notes
every aspects of their like including their houses, families, clothing, customs
and their beliefs.
Elwin also describes another journey that he undertook with
his wife among the Mishimis. Throughout the journey what is evident is the
empathy of the traveler with the landscape and mindscape of its people. The
mini travelogue is full of fascinating details of the land and their people.
Elwin presented the whole description in simple and straight forward language
with the attitude of involvement and interest for the whole hilly region.
2.Describe the author’s journey from Charduar to Tawang.
Or, Account in your
own words the various experiences of the writer during his Pilgrimage to
Tawang.
Answer:-
“A Pilgrimage to Tawang” is
a mine-travelogue which is full of fascinating details of the landscape and
various hill tribes of former NEFA, present day Arunachal Pradesh. Tawang is a
beautiful upland valley between Bhutan and Tibbet. This is the place where renowned
Buddhist monk Dalailama had sought political asylum in India after living
Tibbet due to Chinese attack. In 1962 Tawang again came to light when it was captured
by the Chinese solders. It was however reoccupied by Lama’s and the Indian
administration later on.
In 1956, Elwin was on a tour of this
valley with his wife Lila and covered the same route taken by Dalailama.
Dalailama was able to make the entire journey between Charduar to Bomdila by
jeep. Elwin had a break up journey because he was badly bitten by Dim-dam flies
and other horrid insects which have a poisonous effect on his whole body. In
spite of this troubles on journey both Mr. and Mrs. Elwin enjoyed the adventure
at its highest labels like huge rock cliffs, picturesque Vistas, tunnels of
trees and wild flowers. Greet the visitors there were the sweet smell of the
valley and endless fountains and rills extends the author’s imaginations.
It is not merely the eyes but the mind and
the human spirit that got importance during their journey. The journey over the
Sela Pass is unforgettable. The natural beauty is capable of invoking various
experiences in each visitor in a very personal manner. It is a reserve of unexpected
joy, from being a painter inspiration, a poet’s muse, an environmentalist’s
heaven, a peace seeker’s resort, or a tourist’s vacation spot. The author gives
a vivid description of his journey with all its hardship and its joys which
ceased all the trouble they had to face at their journey.
At Dirang the author meet the Abbot of
Tawang. He is one of the greatest saints of Buddhism. They received a very warm
welcome and found the experience very moving. The Lama’s and his band paid a
welcome guard where small children also took part. After Dirang, Elwin came to
Senzedzong where Dalailama haulted his journey. Later the group crossed SelaPass
which is situated at the height of 14 thousand feet. The two lakes of the
Selapass called “The Eyes of God”. At this place author enjoyed his launch and
they went on for another twenty miles to Tawang.
The group reached Tawang on the Eve of
Buddha Purnima which was 2500 Anniversary of the birth of Buddha. They meet
with the entire monks sand the trumpets were blown. They also met with Mahayana
sector of Buddhism with strong tan-tic elements. Later they went to the
Manastray library where the great treasure was the Getompa, eight large
volumes, three of which were lettered in Gold. There were more than seven
hundred books in the library; books were worshiped even if they were not read.
The visitors also enjoyed the Thutotdam, the dance of the king and queen of
death. The dance reminds the spectators that death awaits every man, so they
must not be too much attracted to physical pleasure.
The journey was one of the most memorable experiences
of Elwin. His description of the ‘Landscape of Tawang’ is so much realistic
that a reader can realize everything between his eyes if he goes through the
essay. Regarding this pilgrimage Elwin himself said, “As I have always called it
something much more to me than the ordinary official tour.” I had always been
interested in Buddhism and inspired by much of its teaching. Now it became real
to one. These few weeks a definite change in my life, a step forward in
spiritual realization.”
Note: This note is
only for a little help and better understanding, you should add some more to
get score marks & advised to read the main text. By P.B.